Initial Impressions

Haiti is a 3rd world country. Before the recent earthquake it ranked with Bolivia as one of the two poorest nations in the hemisphere. The native language is Creole. We arrived February 20th, a little over a month after the earthquake (January 12th). The epicenter was between Leogane and Carrefour, approximately 15 miles from PAP, but the destruction is extensive and everywhere. It occurred at 4:53 PM and the current official estimates are that 222,570 persons were killed, over 300,000 injured; 97,000 homes were destroyed and another 158,000 damaged resulting in over 1.3 million people being displaced. As recently as early March people reported the smell of decaying bodies from some of the larger destruction sites.

PAP, the capital of this island (shared with the Dominican Republic) country is a port city surrounded by 5,000 foot high, mostly barren mountains. It is the filthiest, most polluted place I could have ever imagined, let alone been; an environmental disaster. The stench and insect population surrounding the main market area next to the Port is about enough to cause you to hurl. Scraps leftover from the day’s activities are thrown over the side of the road to join with those of the previous days. Pigs, goats and dogs feast on the morsels. Garbage, when disposed of other that throwing it in streams or alongside the roads, is openly burned along with plastic containers; this smoke mixed with diesel and gas fumes from the numerous vehicles on the roads without emission control devices, and the dust from rubble and unpaved streets, makes the air dense, foul and almost unbreatheable. Every one of the numerous streams and bayous throughout the city are filled with rubbish and animals. Adult and infant humans bathe and wash clothes in the streams.

Tent cities are everywhere; upper class folks have newer tents handed out by relief organizations; lower class still live in cardboard covered with blankets (those better off, cover with tarps); “old money” have tin shanties which I assume were established prequake. People who live in structures that weren’t destroyed sleep outside in make shift tents because of fear. Two 4.7 aftershocks that have occurred since our arrival have reinforced their feeling of terror. People are desperate for jobs but none exist.

Debris is everywhere. Roads which were originally four lanes are often reduced to two. Most vehicles are total junk and traffic jams are often caused by breakdowns. This however, doesn’t dissuade drivers, all of whom are IDIOTS. Roads reduced to three lanes by debris often see five lanes created; four going one way, one the other. If this requires occasional sidewalk usage, so be it. All drivers are in a hurry but traffic goes nowhere. The horn is the most important part of any car and broken down vehicles make for additional obstacles every block.

Despite the widespread chaotic conditions, I’ve never felt unsafe. I’ve been all over PAP as well as several remote villages delivering food and supplies – but all travel has been during daylight hours. The greatest cause of unrest is the distribution of food and water where panic can breakout if careful planning is not used. As supplies are becoming more available, this is rarer.

The Haitian people seem genuinely resilient and are quite thankful for all we do. Generally most condemn their government for being corrupt and incompetent; they would love to be annexed to the US. We’ve explained that short of a massive oil discovery here, that dog’s not going to hunt. The government, on the other hand, wants the US out as soon as possible so they can reinstitute the old-boy way of doing business. This withdrawal has now begun, and soon the UN will be left in charge. For whatever reasons, the Haitian people consider the UN ineffective … their rubber bullets aren’t much of a deterrent and they do little but drive around. There is concern that increased lawlessness may be a near term result of the US withdrawal.

Arriving February 20th with no mission or home base…and a lone name to contact at the airport we have witnessed God’s hand in our journey. We have been blessed to stay at New Life Children’s Home (NLCH), a five acre property adjacent to the airport. You could walk from the property to the airport, if allowed to cross the runway, in five minutes. Travel by car can take between 20 minutes to an hour+.

We sleep in our tent on cots. As there is no hot water, showers are cool at the start, refreshing at the end. Because of the increase in number of people coming thru Haiti to aid in relief efforts, numerous tents are on the grounds and Porta Potties are available. Thank heavens they are serviced frequently and are very clean, even by US standards. Every day is hot with the heat index at 105+ and during the day and 90+ at night as you lie in your un-air-conditioned tent and await sleep.

On the three nights it rained our tent leaked and we were living in Barnard Pond. I think we have solved the problem but won’t know for sure until the next time. Fran, bless her heart, though not enthused about our coming and one who’s idea of roughing it before this journey was staying at a Motel 6, only whined once. She has since been convicted of our purpose here and is in full speed ahead mode. [The next rain storm turned out to be a major downpour that flooded out many of the displaced camps. Our compound turned into standing water for several days. Our tent was pretty much under water and we were forced to abandon it. We now have a better, drier version…it’s like we’ve moved up to the Marriott. Our old tent, which we would have thrown away at home, has been recycled to a less fortunate Haitian family.]

The compound is/was surrounded by and eight foot high block wall, half of which was damaged by the quake (only damage to the facility). The walls are presently being rebuilt ($30,000); in the interim they employ armed Haitian guards ($2,000 a month). We are fed breakfast and dinner and the cooks are excellent; someone is available to wash our clothes (we pay $3/$4 each time). Fran has since taken over this job...back to hanging out the laundry with clothes pins circa 1940s, 50s. They charge $30 a person per day to stay here. Wi-Fi is available, but at dial-up speed only.

NLCH is a fascinating place and I will elaborate on it more as I review our specific activities and goals.

The first two weeks are best overviewed by listing some of the fascinating people we met and worked with. This is somewhat chronological and does little to explain why or how we were brought together in this moment in time. Just accept that it was God’s plan. It also isn’t to slight the many other talented, hard working, warm hearted people we have been privileged to meet, talk and work alongside.